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Cruising The ICW

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Destination: Historic Beaufort, NC

05 Thursday Aug 2021

Posted by “Oh Captain My Captain” in From the helm

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2006 Mainship 34T, America's Great Loop Cruisers' Association, Atlantic ICW, Beaufort Docks Marina, Beaufort NC, Belhaven Community Chamber of Commerce, Belhaven NC, Blessed, BoatUS, Coastal destinations, Cruising, CruisingTheICW, Friends, Georgetown SC, Grateful, Harborwalk Marina, Hospitality, Life, Love, Mainship, Mainship 34T, Marinas, Memories, Myrtle Beach Yacht Club, Passage Maker Magazine, Reflections, Slow Dance, Soundings, Soundings Online, Swansboro, Thinking Ouside the Boat, Trawler, Waterfront dining, Wilmington NC, Wrightsville Beach

Last year, due to COVID-19 we did no long distance cruising. For this year’s journey, we spent our final night at home on the boat, so we could get an early start . On July 12, 2021 at 7:01 AM we cast off from the dock, idled under the Ben Sawyer, and began CruisingTheICW north!

First stop, Harborwalk Marina, Georgetown, SC. “Slow Dance” seems happy to be cruising again! Since returning from our 2019 summer on the Chesapeake, she’s gotten a new stateroom air conditioning unit, windless, the head serviced, new generator water pump, the hull waxed and new bottom paint, beautiful new Eisenglass for the upper helm, and last but not least, the annual service of the main engine, generator, and transmission. Since 2006, the main engine and generator’s oil has been changed every 100 hours, not counting the annual service done prior to departure for our multi-week cruises. Though we didn’t put 100 hours on her during COVID-2020, we adopted the rule of service annually or every 100 hours, which ever comes first.

While it’s rare for us to spend less than two nights in Georgetown, for a variety of reasons we had to keep pushing back our departure, so Georgetown was just an overnight stop on this journey. As always, Harbormaster Chris and his crew provided excellent service and a beautifully clean facility. And added bonus, it’s hard to remember when we’ve gone into Harborwalk and not seen at least one large and beautiful yacht docked there. If you’re CruisingTheICW through South Carolina, and have never visited Georgetown, put it on your itinerary. It’s a quaint little historic town with a harbor, Southern hospitality, good restaurants, SC Maritime Museum, and shopping,

Second stop, Myrtle Beach Yacht Club, Little River, SC. Since 2017 when we began our summer CruisingTheICW north, the yacht club has been our second night’s destination. Why? Reasonable dock fees, traditionally great fuel prices, great and reasonably priced food at The Officer’s Club private dining for transients and members, and as always, an accommodating and professional crew to help with docking and most anything else we might need. Unfortunately, the The Officer’s Club is closed Mondays and Tuesdays, so for the Admiral and me, there’s always next time!

Third stop, Seapath Yacht Club, Wrightsville Beach, NC. When we began CruisingTheICW north in 2017, we made it a point to spend at least a couple of nights in Wrightsville Beach to visit with old friends. Sadly, an old best friend, Bruce Allcorn, the friend that always met us at the dock no matter where we stayed in Wilmington or Wrightsville Beach, passed away unexpectedly last October. This year’s visit without Bruce was tough. To know the guy was to love him. Our friendship went back over 50-years to our high school days and love of Austin Healey 3000s. At his celebration of life last May, the only person in attendance to have known him longer than me, was his older brother. Memories, so many memories.

“Beach Music,” the perfect name for a beautiful vintage Hatteras yacht built in North Carolina, home of beach music and beach bands like the incredible Embers, who made the song, “I Love Beach Music” famous.

Seapath Yacht Club is only a couple of hundred yards “off the ICW,” with limited transient slips, but a quiet, sheltered place to overnight. Their new shower facility has to be one the newest and nicest on the ICW. Another plus is their proximity to some of the finest dining in Wrightsville Beach. For many reasons, Wrightsville Beach will forever be on our northbound cruise itinerary.

Next stop, the new Town Docks at Swansboro, NC. In years past, we visited Swansboro by car, and a couple of years we stopped by the town docks for Kate the Mate’s “nature call.” When I recently read that reservations could now be made for overnights at the docks, we decided to overnight there instead of having such a long day getting to Beaufort. While walking around Swansboro that afternoon, we stopped by the visitors center and learned the town is in the process of putting in shower baths and a washer and dryer for transients’ use, in the Swansboro Visitors Center. While the visitors center is not adjacent to the docks, the new facilities will be no further away than those of some other marinas we’ve visited. It’s great to see small towns like Swansboro welcoming ICW transient boaters. To many, the ICW is their “intrastate highway.”

On to Beaufort, our first multi-night stop this summer. In 2018, our departure from home was scheduled around getting us to Beaufort in time for the Admiral to celebrate her July 4th birthday there. This year it was scheduled around getting her to Beaufort in time to enjoy Saturday’s Farmer’s Market! I’m happy to say we made it.

Like Georgetown, Beaufort is a favorite stopping point for large yachts, and this year was no exception. As we entered the Beaufort harbor, the 142′ superyacht, “MISSING LINK” could not be missed. Owned by Jack Link, of America’s #1 Jerky Brand, “MISSING LINK” was designed and built by US builder, Christensen Shipyards at their Vancouver shipyard. The yacht’s interior was designed by Carol Williamson and Associates.

On the right of the photograph is “MISSING LINK,” and on the left is “Slow Dance.” “MISSING LINK” travels with an Invincible center console launch that is the approximate length of “Slow Dance.” It can be seen perpendicular on the other side of the dock between “MISSING LINK” and “Slow Dance.”

We first “discovered”Beaufort when my parents bought a little place on Harker’s Island, a short distance from Beaufort. When visiting the island, Beaufort was where we went for dinner and shopping. Today, we enjoy Beaufort Town Docks, but it’s not the only marina in Beaufort. When staying there, we can walk or cycle most anywhere around town. But, others we’ve met while cruising swear by Homer Smith’s Docks and Marina, the full service Town Creek Marina, and the new Beaufort Yacht Basin.

What to do in Beaufort. Having spent my career in the travel industry, I’m about the worst tourist you will ever meet. We love to travel, but when we visit a destination, we enjoy getting local input on things to do. While rarely do we visit every attraction and museum in the local visitors’ guide! But, in Beaufort, there are some things I’d encourage doing.

  • Visit the North Carolina Maritime Museum
  • Beaufort Historic Site and Museum Visitors Center
  • Old Beauforte Farmers Market (A Saturday event)
  • Water tours ~ there is a myriad of water tours offered in Beaufort. Though I’ve never taken one, but I would encourage a visitor to Beaufort or Morehead City to take two specific water tours, (1) a tour that takes you to Cape Lookout Lighthouse, (2) a tour that takes you to the 5,400 acre Rachel Carson Coastal Equestrian Preserve or the Shackleford Banks to see the beautiful wild horses in their natural habit.
  • For detailed information about the many reasons to visit Beaufort, Morehead City, and all the Crystal Coast of North Carolina, visit the Crystal Coast of NC.

Dining in Beaufort. Years ago when we came to Beaufort from Harker’s Island for dinner, Clawson’s was the old standby. Today there are a number of quality restaurants from which to choose. Some of our favorites within easy walking distance of the marina are Finz, Black Sheep Beaufort, Front Street Grill, The Spouter Inn, Ribeyes Steakhouse, Mezcalito Beaufort, and of course, the old standby, Clawson’s.

Historic Beaufort, Morehead City, and the Crystal Coast of North Carolina. Great cruising destinations.

“Dwell as near as possible to the channel in which your life flows.” Henry David Thoreau

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Sometimes The Best Laid Plans…

06 Sunday Oct 2019

Posted by “Oh Captain My Captain” in From the helm

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Blessed, Boat, BoatUS, Chesapeake Bay, CruisingTheICW, Friends, Grateful, Life, Mainship, Mainship 34T, Marinas, Point Lookout Marina, Safety, Safety first, Slow Dance, Sunday, Thinking Ouside the Boat, Truth, Weather day, Winds and Waves

October 6, 2019 ~ Point Lookout Marina, Ridge, MD. We arrived late Wednesday prepared to leave on Thursday or Friday to cruise Slow Dance home. Mother Nature had a different plan.

As it turned out, Thursday was spent cleaning and prepping Slow Dance for the trip. And then, on Thursday evening we were warned by watermen working out of the marina that the “next few days” on the Bay would be so bad that even they weren’t going out. In the end one boat went out and returned early. In the words of one crew member, “It was f**king horrible. I feel like I’ve gone ten rounds with Mike Tyson!”

Today the couple on the sailboat that had been docked behind us left before sunrise, heading north in hopes of getting home off the Patuxant River. They texted us once on the Bay to let us know that conditions on the Bay were really rough and the lower Potomac had been even worse! At 1:04PM we received a text that they were finally safe at their home port. During their trip they saw only two big power boats and one sailboat. I sent her pictures of the two shown below, and asked if these were the two they saw. Her one word reply was, “Yes!”

The big express yacht was the first to arrive. They are in route from Maine to Naples, FL. They left Baltimore this morning and conditions went from rough to horrible. They ended their day here — early.

The big Hatteras cockpit motoryacht left Solomons Island this morning. Just a few miles south of Solomons the conditions got so bad their dinghy — secured on the flybridge — bounced off the boat, and a tv came off its wall mount. In the winds and 5-7 foot wave conditions, it took an hour to save and secure the dinghy to tow behind them.

A delivery captain, that arrived on a 32-foot Back Cove a couple of hours earlier than the yachts, said he was into his ninth day of a five day delivery! He said that in his thirty-five years of yacht delivery he had never encountered so many days of high winds and 5-7 foot seas — inshore. The worst part was there was no interval between the waves.

It’s Sunday. As is our custom when we’re cruising, we live-streamed the Mount Pleasant Presbyterian Church service on the iPad. This afternoon, after hearing the stories of our new friends that went north, and the captains of the three boats that arrived today, we’re thanking the Good Lord that we followed the advice of the watermen and remained safely on the dock — drinking coffee — and “attending” church.

Fair winds and following seas,

Oh Captain My Captain

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“Follow In My Wake”

Lanes Ferry Dock and Grill features the best hot dog on the planet!
Lanes Ferry Dock and Grill features the best hot dog on the planet!
An early sunset casts a warm light on the "Next Chapter," a beautiful 130 ft Westport, at the popular Southport (NC) Marina.
An early sunset casts a warm light on the “Next Chapter,” a beautiful 130 ft Westport, at the popular Southport (NC) Marina.
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Southport Marina
Captain Buck's Port Chef James Kohler
Captain Buck’s Port Chef James Kohler
The Admiral enjoys reading, while Kate the Mate stands by the captain.
The Admiral enjoys reading, while Kate the Mate stands by the captain.
Bridge Tender Marina
Bridge Tender Marina
Myrtle Beach Yacht Club
Myrtle Beach Yacht Club
Starboard sunset
Big Tuna, Georgetown, SC
Big Tuna, Georgetown, SC
Sullivans Island skyJPG
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Boatyards

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Destinations Along the ICW

  • Beaufort, NC
  • Beaufort, SC
  • Belhaven, NC
  • Chesapeake, VA
  • Elizabeth City, NC
  • Georgetown, SC
  • Golden Isles, GA
  • Hampton, VA
  • Little River, SC
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  • Southport, NC
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  • Wilmington, NC
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Great Boating Magazines

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  • Soundings Magazine – Real Boats, Real Boaters
  • Southern Boating & Yachting

Marinas

  • Atlantic Yacht Basin
  • Belhaven Marina
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